OEM - next?

[Asdrael]

Wondering what I should do next. Stop, something, whatever. Vote.

[𝖙𝖋𝖈]

If I updated my rm250 2 stroke model and made a 125 version, I'd love you to do those the geom was my least favorite part of that project lol..

[Vortex_Damien]

you can do a oem of my crf aswell

[Asdrael]

If I updated my rm250 2 stroke model and made a 125 version, I'd love you to do those

Deal, just need the models

you can do a oem of my crf aswell

I could, and do the 250F with the 2017 450F model (but keep the 250F specs). That would not be 100% realistic model Wise, but damn your 450F model looks so awesome would be a pity to skip.

[pacopastor34]

you can do a oem of my crf aswell

+1 and a template would be fine. Very nice model.

If I updated my rm250 2 stroke model and made a 125 version, I'd love you to do those the geom was my least favorite part of that project lol..

+1 a RM125 would be the best!

[HornetMaX]

Only thing I'd dislike is to have two versions of the same bike (an OEM one and a ... uh, non-OEM one). It's just confusing and space+time wasting

[Asdrael]

Only thing I'd dislike is to have two versions of the same bike (an OEM one and a ... uh, non-OEM one). It's just confusing and space+time wasting

tbh I'd love to phase out the non-OEM one. However, we had a discussion some time ago on engines and competitiveness - that's why all bikes beside the non-OEM ones have stock engines. Plus, I cannot just decide to start a dictatorship on how bikes are done, not more than do everything myself.

If we all (meaning modders and vocal players at least) agree on some "rules" and abide by those, sure, let's all try to make factory spec stuff. Until then, I think we'll have to stick to 2 versions. (hint: gimme feedback on the OEM stuff and process, we can only make it as good as the effort we put into it ). Going from my "standard" version (with "true" geometry but standard engine) to a full OEM ("true" engine, ratios and weight) takes at most 1h by the way.

[HornetMaX]

Well in real life different bikes have different engines/specs and they do compete, so ... I guess the bike "owner" makes the call (OEM or not) and that's it.

If somebody thinks bike X is inferior to bike Y in terms of performances, he's free to use bike Y

[𝖙𝖋𝖈]

It would be perfect if you could have a bike folder with sub folders for different versions. That way, multiple bikes, one model, one set of core files like sounds, paints etc..

I do like having both, the OEM stuff is great.

[teeds]

OEM seems the way to go for the bikes but am still unsure about the tyre grip mod. I like the way Goes tyres allows you to slide on the rear brake with the back end out (assuming it's the tyre and not the geom allowing that) but I'm thinking it seems a bit too "on rails" otherwise to me, but not sure really.

[Asdrael]

OEM seems the way to go for the bikes but am still unsure about the tyre grip mod. I like the way Goes tyres allows you to slide on the rear brake with the back end out (assuming it's the tyre and not the geom allowing that) but I'm thinking it seems a bit too "on rails" otherwise to me, but not sure really.

Just for information - Geo Tyres v1.5 has 1% more grip on dry dirt (compact, normal and soft soil) than stock with both using hard tyres, and less grip than stock everywhere else except wet sand. Going for a softer tyre with Geo Tyres does increase grip by 2% a step at the cost of 10 or 20% resistance which can be see as a loss of HP. I personnaly never use anything else than Hard for 125 and 250f, but go to either mid soft or mid hard for 450F (and that's to tame the power more than anything). Most of the grip improvement you see with the models I have worked on is 99% due to geometry and weight balance (I have tested extensively OEM models both with Geo Tyres and stock).

Just load up the YZ250F and the YZ250F OEM both hard tyres and compare, you'll hardly see any grip difference on dry dirt. Actually the OEM will slide slightly more due to its better engine and lower weight despite of the 1% improved tyre grip.

[teeds]

You use hard tyres every where!? 

If it's only a 1% difference with tyres then why are we bothering with all the hassles of tyres and different versions of bikes to accommodate them? I'm all for the wet and sand difference but having just rode the 96125cr for a while in the dry, the back end is just so much fun to slide around under power with pibs tyres.

[Asdrael]

It's only one folder extra you need to have and you are set. No biggie.

The way I see it:
- you want different models with realistic geometry in different flavours but no other surprises -> std models
- you want everything as close as possible to real stuff (at least as good as we can make it) -> OEM, and that includes Geo Tyres because I don't see the point in going the extra miles and sticking with the same grip in mud as on dry groomed tracks.

And I don't see the problem with back end slides... I can get my rear to slide a lot (controlled) on any OEM bikes, even the 250F and 125... I'm having problems keeping the "controlled" part true with the 450F though still

That's the 250 2stroke OEM on Washougal:

[Asdrael]

If anyone of you has a friend with a 2017 CRF450, I'm after the primary drive ratio (that crankshaft -> clutch, NOT the teeth at the exit of the transmission and rear wheel!)and the first gear ratio. I think I have the rest. If you have similar data on the 250F 2017, I'll take it too.

(So far, I have looked at 10 different test and review websites, all Honda websites, contacted Honda support and posted on VitalMX forums :p Honda sells its workshop manuals for 100$...).

[Rick]

Please... Stone's Husky